Preparing and premolding heel and quarter portions of boots and shoes



y 23} 1939- B. F. HARTWELL ET AL ,762

- PREPARING AND PREMOLDING HEEL AND QUARTER PORTIONS 0F BOOTS AND SHOES Filed 001;. 11, 1937 Patented May 23, 1939 PREPARING AND PREMOLDING HEEL AND gUARTER- PORTIONS OF BOOTS AND HOES Benjamin F. Hartwell, Leslie L. Hartwell, Jr., and Arthur F. Hartwell, Bellows Falls, Vt.

Application October 11, 1937, Serial No. 168,330

1 Claim. (Cl. 12-146) Our present invention is directed to the improved method and process of preparing and premolding certain portions of boots and shoes, particularly the heel and quarter sections, and the the inner stiffening layer also out or died of the same area and contour as that of the outer material I, the layer 2 having a marginal beveled portion 3 entirely around its exterior contour. A

5 object of the invention is to improve and perfect lining layer of suitable material 5 is made of 5 the methods of our prior and copending applicalarger area and contour than that of the other tions, Ser. Nos. 104,196, filed Oct. 6, 1936, and two layers, and all three may be notched as indi- No, 137,708 filed April 19, 1937. cated at 6 and 1 for ready alignment when assem- As explained in our said prior applications we bling as is usual. Suitable adhesive is supplied 19 have developed certain novel and improved methto each side of the stiffening layer 2 or to the in- 10 ods of boot and shoe construction, wherein the ner surfaces of the outer finishing material I premolding of the heel and quarter sections or and the lining 5 which are to contact with the other parts of the shoe, including the making of stiffening layer 2, or both if desired, and all three alasted flange by the molding operation and conare then assembled while fiat, as shown in forming the entire heel and quarter sections into Figs. 1 and 2. substantially final finished form prior to lasting, Heat and pressure being applied to the three is an important characteristic; and our present blanks thus assembled, the same are firmly united invention is directed specifically to simplify the and thereupon the finishing and binding stitchpreparation of the heel and quarter materials, ing I0 is applied, and simultaneously the surplus 2 via, the lining, the intermediate stiffening layer, portion of the lining 5, as indicated at I2, is cut and the outer finished upper material for the shoe therefrom, thus presenting a completely finished quarter and heel portions, and preparing the edge independently of any folding operation, as same for the premolding operation. shown in Figs. 4 and 5, 1

While it is desirable to have a turned or finished The bevelled portion 3 of the stiffening material is edge when premolding shoe structures, we find and the close cutting of the surplus lining prethat it is feasible to so form the sections and unite sents an acceptable appearance to the edge of the same as to eliminate the edge-folding operathe shoe, as the outer layer constituting the finish tion, thus greatly simplifying the manufacturof the upper practically overlays the edge and 1 ing process for this particularshoe and the heel predominates the appearance.

: and quarter portions, as well also as to improve Thereupon the now prepared upper materials, the premolding operation which can be more which have thus far been operated on while flat, readily preformed without danger of wrinkling or are subjected to the molding operation, producing marring, with a minimum of thicknesses. a finished contoured heel and quarter portion In carrying out our present invention therefor with the lasting flange l5 formed thereon, all as we specially prepare the blanks constituting the explained in our said prior applications. The lining, intermediate stiffening layer, and outer elimination of any folding operation on the upfinishing material, cutting or dieing out the same permost or top edge of the three united layers while all are flat, skiving the innermost stiffening eliminates the danger of wrinkles and greatly layer, and uniting all three layers, as well as facilitates premolding.

1U stitching the outermost edge, all while fiat, and We claim: it) simultaneously trimming the lining layer, which That improvement in the art of pre-molding is purposely made of larger area for this pura plurality of shoe upper materials into final pose, producing a serviceable finished edge as well finished form, with a finished edge along the top as a heel and quarter section which will facilitate and an attaching flange along the bottom, inde- 4.5 the premolding Operationpendently of lasting operations, which consists Ref to the drawing illustrating a prein cutting the outer shoe upper layer, a lining ferred embodiment of present inventien, layer, and an intermediate stiffening layer into 1 i a p n View P y in Cross-Section substantially uniform contour and area, thereof the three prepared layers to constitute the heel upon uniting said layers with adhesive while fiat, 60 and quarter sections of a boot or shoe; then simultaneously stitching and trimming the Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view;

Fig. 3 is a plan view illustrating the stitching and trimming;

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective on a reduced scale of the premolded quarter and heel sections, and

, Fig. 5 is a cross sectional View on the line 55 of Fig. 4,

Referring to the drawing, I designates the outer finishing material constituting the shoe upper, which is cut or died out while flat, and 2 indicates top edge portions of said plurality of united shoe upper layers while still flat, and thereupon premolding the united and trimmed plurality of layers into final finished form, with an attaching flange inturned on the unstitched bottom edge, said-flange incorporating all three of said layers.

BENJAMIN F. HARTWELL. LESLIE L. HARTWELL, JR. ARTHUR F. HAR'I'WEIL. 

